15th Century hats and capulets

Recently a friend was sewing some new later period 15th Century Italian dresses for herself and her daughter and I offered to make them proper head wear to go along with their new lovely dresses.  I knew I had made a very simple Italian hat before but I wanted to give her options and this is the one she decided upon. 

"La Bella Principessa" Memorial or wedding portrait of Bianca Sforza [married and died 1496], legitimised daughter of Ludovico Sforza Dated c.1495-6.  

After getting her measurements I started out by making the top back piece out of a woven gold metallic fabric trim.  This was something I picked up years ago and never knew what I was going to use it for but knew I might need it some day.  Once I cut it and added the outer trim I gathered the bottom and sewed it in place and added the pearls.  Once that was finished I used some of the fabric from her dress to create a tapering tube.  Because my friend Amy has short hair she would not be able to braid it and place it inside the tube to hold the shape of the headdress so I had to stuff the tube lightly with cotton stuffing to help hold it shape.  I then wrapped with metallic trim and used pearls securing it all the way up the tube leaving a little opening in the back so she could make a small pony tail and place it inside the tube and then she would wrap the end with the remaining trim and pin it in place.  Below is the finished product before I mailed it out.  I am hoping to get a picture of her in it soon.

As for her daughter, instead for making a full headdress I made her a simple 15th Century Italian Capulet. I made a pattern from her measurements and then on the pattern began to weave the trim and tacking it in place with pearls.  Afterwards, I handstitched the trim edge and added the ties.  Last came the outer layer of pearls on edging.